Textiles & Raw Materials
Joslin sources textiles and yarns that are high in quality, planet friendly and traceable to the source wherever possible. Joslin uses only fabrications derived from natural compositions in each and every design (with the exception of Joslin's Knitwear Collection, see further below under 'synthetic textiles'). Fabrications and fibres used by Joslin include linen (see in detail below), ramie, silk, wool, cashmere and cotton textiles and yarns from traceable origins.
Approximately 70% or more of Joslin’s garments are made from linen. Linen is naturally occurring from the flax plant and is one of the most naturally occurring sustainable fibres. Joslin's linen-flax is of traceability to the Normandy region of France, a terroir of excellence for the flax culture and traditional agriculture that has positive effects on eco-system diversity and offers a environmental pause for soil quality and bio-diversity. We ensure our TIER 3 and TIER 4 suppliers of our linen-flax are certified with European Flax®. It is within our Supplier Code of Conduct for Country of Origin Certifications and/or European Flax® Certifications to be provided.
- Flax cultivation has positive effects on eco-system diversity and offers a environmental pause for soil quality and bio-diversity
- The flax plant and crop respects the environment and preserves the land, as well as the surrounding plants and wildlife
- Flax protects the soil and water resources, it requires zero irrigation as rain water is enough for the crop to grow naturally
- No pesticides are used or required to protect the crop whilst growing, thus there is no green house gas emissions
- No genetically modified organisms
- The entire plant is used and no part of the plant is wasted
- Carbon sink, the crop absorbs more carbon than it puts out
- Field retting
- Mechanical scutching to yarn
- Low carbon emissions
- Biodegradable properties
From the field to the scutched fibre, the production is fully traced, which allows a better follow up of the fibre lots quality. The combed flax is imported into Jiangsu, China in bales where it is spun and then woven into batiste cloth. Linen uses approximately 90% less embodied energy in its manufacture than polyester -'fast fashion's' most common fabric - and is long lasting and durable in the wardrobe.
Ramie has similar characteristics to linen, ramie fibres are sourced from Chinese Nettle, which is native to East Asia. It is naturally growing and biodegradable. Joslin's ramie is grown in China and is woven into ramie organdy and batiste cloth.
Organic cotton is cotton that is produced and certified to organic agricultural standards. Its production sustains the health of soils, ecosystems and people by using natural processes rather than artificial inputs. Importantly organic cotton farming does not allow the use of toxic chemicals or GMOs (genetically modified organisms). Instead, it combines tradition, innovation and science to benefit the shared environment and promote a good quality of life for all involved.
Growing organic cotton keeps farmers and their families safe. They are not exposed to toxic chemicals in the field or through their food and water supply. It also means farmers grow more than one crop which supplements their food and income.
Joslin strives to ensure non GMO cotton is used throughout all manufacturing, to the best of our knowledge.
Joslin's woven shirts, dresses and tops made from GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard). Certification is provided in each individual product description.
Joslin's 2021 Denim is made from GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard). Certification is provided in each individual product description.
Cotton & Cotton Blend Knitwear
Joslin's Knitwear Program uses both BCI Cotton* (Better Cotton Initiative) through a partnered mill with BCI Cotton and GOTS Certified (Global Organic Textile Standard) cotton yarns. Certification is provided in each individual product description.
*Joslin is not currently registered as a BCI Member as we don’t meet the MOQ (with each individual purchase order) for 'Measuring Cotton Consumption' to qualify as a member under the guidelines of BCI.
We blend Cashmere Fibre (approximately 5%) back with our Cotton Knitwear to provide a soft and luxurious hand-feel. Joslin's Cashmere is sourced through UPW, with all yarns being dyed and spun through their facilities in Dongguan, China, which is close to our Knitwear Factory, so less embodied energy is used in the transportation of our raw materials. Joslin's cashmere is sourced from ethical farms in Inner Mongolia, which is carefully and regularly monitored by UPW to ensure the best living standards of the animals. All our cashmere fibre is traceable to a specific region and down to the individual cone thanks to unique inventory control software. Our Cashmere is certified with GCS (Good Cashmere Standard), SFA (Sustainable Fibre Alliance) and ICCAW (International Cooperation Committee of Animal Welfare).
Joslin's Merino Wool is sourced through UPW, with all yarns being dyed and spun through their facilities in Dongguan, China, which is close to our Knitwear Factory, so less embodied energy is used in the transportation of our raw materials. UPW sources wool from across the globe, searching for the finest wool with the highest standards for sustainability. UPW is a member of Woolmark and are certified by the Responsible Wool Standard.
OEKO-TEX® 100 STANDARD
All of Joslin’s manufacturers and dye-houses ensure yearly audits and certification of OEKO-TEX® 100 STANDARD, meaning no harmful chemicals are used during the dying process, ensuring customer confidence, high product safety and healthier waterways. OEKO-TEX® undertakes extensive product checks and regular company on-site visits with factories all over the world to ensure that the industry has a globally sustainable awareness of the responsible use of chemicals.
We cannot avoid synthetics 100%, but synthetics and plastics are generally not used at Joslin, this is due to synthetic textiles ‘non-compostable/non-biodegradable’ and ‘micro-plastic’ properties that have profound effects on the planet’s land-fill levels and oceans, and furthermore the negative environmental impact and carbon emissions of producing polyesters and acrylics through petroleum.
According to Textile Exchange, polyester accounted for 57.75% of fibre production in 2019, with only a share of 14% of this being recycled. Joslin believes the world urgently needs to lower the usage of fossil fuelled textiles and move towards textile-to-textile recycling if fossil fuelled textiles are to be of continued use, this will also improve social conditions and awareness in waste collection and recycling.
In Joslin designs, synthetics and plastics are only used when there is no natural alternative, or when it benefits the natural composition. In garment production, it is not always possible to avoid synthetics and plastics - buttons, zips and fusing’s are the benchmark of standard manufacturing and garment construction. There is currently no natural alternative that is commercially viable for fusing.
Joslin’s Knitwear Collection, has designs and yarns that use pre-consumer recycled nylon, the nylon supports the construction of the knit, ensuring stability and return, making it last even longer. The recycled yarns used are certified by Global Recycle Standard, a certification level created by The Textile Exchange.